Makeup for Acne

Wearing makeup is a very personal choice, but when your skin is breaking out, it can seem like a chore. Speaking from previous experience, I’ve felt the need to cover up my red/angry acne-prone skin just to feel normal. My story is not very different from other acne sufferers; most people with acne feel the need to wear makeup to aid in their confidence – but could the makeup you’re wearing be making your acne worse?

Non-Comedogenic

“Non-comedogenic” refers to products that are believed to not clog pores. “Comedogenicity” tests were initially performed in the 1970’s on the inside of rabbit ears after it was discovered that rabbits formed blackheads when certain topical products were applied. Blackheads from offending products were seen in as little as two weeks in these rabbit ears, while humans can take up to six months to show clogged pores/blackheads. Although it’s not possible to extrapolate those results to humans in an exact manner, comedogenicity ratings are a good place to start.

Unfortunately, there is no standard or regulation set to categorize this labeling, meaning any product could potentially claim to be non-comedogenic. When choosing a skincare or makeup product, try to look for non-comedogenic products.

Some people like to apply a new product for several days to a small area, to check for adverse reactions. This can help weed out allergic reactions to products – although, those are not common.

Testing a product in a smaller area is not likely to tell you much about its tendency to aggravate blocked pores (comedogenicity) and acne breakout (acnegenicity), as this may take many weeks or months to develop. But of course, feel free to patch test, if you’d like!

Websites for general references regarding comedogenicity include: http://www.cosdna.com/ and http://www.acne.org/comedogenic-list.html.

But you should only use comedogenicity information as a general guideline – your face is not a rabbit’s ear!

All About the Base

*Ideally, you want to make sure your skin is prepped for makeup. The basics involve moisturizer and SPF protection. People with oily skin already have moisturizer "built in," so they can skip applying a moisturizer.

Primers are also optional. Most primers are silicone based; the “original” primer (which many people still use today) is a popular and affordable silicone-based chafing cream. Yes, I said chafing cream, and I’m pretty sure anyone who has picked up a magazine has seen it as a DIY primer or on a dupe list ;)

In any case, primers are marketed to help extend the wear of your makeup and blur pores and wrinkles. Dimethicone, the main silicone in most primers, is thought to be non-comedogenic. Another option would be to use a silicone-free primer, which can be found at your local makeup retailer/drugstore.

Coverage/Foundation

Many dermatologists recommend that you use mineral-based makeup for a plethora of reasons:

• Gives a light sunscreen through zinc oxide (additional SPF is still recommended)
• Is non-comedogenic
• Lowers risk of irritation
• Provides a less favorable home for bacteria (compared to liquid foundation)

Liquid foundations are an option for added coverage. Choose a foundation that corresponds with your skin type and needs, and is labeled non-comedogenic.

Take advantage of the generous samples that retailers like Sephora have to offer. Pay attention to the type of dispensing mechanism, as this could lead to increased bacterial growth in your liquid foundation! For example, a pump is usually more hygienic than a screw top bottle that you pour onto the back of your hand or a makeup mixing palette. And of course, make sure hands and tools are kept as clean as possible!

Foundation + Acne Fighting Medication?

Most foundations that are marketed as acne-fighting or blemish-control contain salicylic acid. Salicylic acid (also known as a beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a keratolytic agent that works by helping shed and peel the outermost layers of skin.

Salicylic acid can be effective against acne, but it does have a drying component. A foundation with salicylic acid may be great for oily skin, but may not be the best choice for someone with sensitive skin, as it might aggravate their already dry skin. If you’re using a dedicated acne treatment, there is generally no need for salicylic acid in your foundation, as it may lead to irritation and redness.

Conclusion

Having read this, if you are still a little confused about your makeup possibly contributing to your acne, an easy experiment would be to leave a certain makeup product out of your routine for a week or two - or longer. Ask yourself: Did my acne improve? Worsen? How does my skin feel? Be your own skin “scientist” and consumer researcher; learn what works best for YOUR skin.

References:

http://journal.scconline.org/pdf/cc1989/cc040n06/p00321-p00333.pdf

http://www.dermnetnz.org/treatments/salicylic-acid.html

http://www.skincancer.org/healthy-lifestyle/go-with-your-own-glow/getting-gorgeous-and-sun-safe-with-mineral-makeup

Monica Sanchez, PA-C

Monica Sanchez is a board-certified Physician Assistant at PocketDerm, where patients can see a health care professional online for comprehensive acne and anti-aging treatment. Monica completed her undergraduate studies at Whittier college, graduated with her Master of Physician Assistant Practice at the University of Southern California, and is currently based in San Diego, CA.

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Entering is simple!

Just snap a photo of your PocketDerm wherever your summer adventures take you, post your photo to Instagram or Twitter with the hashtag #PocketDermontheRoad

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Contest Details

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It’s summertime and while the living is easy, being protected against the sun isn’t always, especially if you’re dealing with acne at the same time! There are so many choices out there that finding a sunscreen that won’t worsen your breakout can seem impossible. Here are the most important things to know about sunscreen so that you feel confident about your skin safety while you’re rocking those skin-baring swimsuits!

UVA VS. UVB

Sunscreens that protect against UVA and UVB are often described as being “broad-spectrum.” But what exactly are UVA and UVB? The sun’s UV (ultraviolet) light rays are classified into UVA, which are a longer wavelength, and UVB, which are shorter.

UVA

• Main cause of aging and wrinkling – photoaging
• Contributes to the development of skin cancer
• Penetrates through clouds and glass – think of the sun exposure in your car!
• Penetrates deeper into the skin compared to UVB
• Major contributor to tanning (skin darkening is a response to sun damage and injury to the skin’s DNA—there is no such thing as a healthy tan!)

UVB

• Main cause of redness and sunburn
• Contributes to the development of skin cancer
• Penetrates through glass, but less than UVA

SPF VS. PPD

SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a measure of a sunscreen's ability to prevent UVB and some UVA rays from damaging the skin. It is based on how quickly redness forms on sunscreen-protected skin compared to unprotected skin. This is measured as MED (minimal erythema dose, or ‘‘the smallest UV dose that produces perceptible redness of the skin with clearly defined borders at 16 to 24 hours after UV exposure").

Sunscreens with an SPF of 15 or higher protect well against UVB. For extended outdoor activity, you will want to use a water-resistant, broad-spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher.

No need to get too wild with higher SPFs: SPF was more important 20 years ago, when SPFs were low and most sunscreens were narrow spectrum. Sunscreens these days protect very well against UVB, so SPF is not as important as finding a sunscreen that you like and and that is affordable!

PPD (persistent pigment darkening) is often used to describe the UVA protection factor of Asian sunscreens. It measures the minimal UVA radiation dose required to induce the first perceptible pigmentation changes (i.e., minimal pigmenting dose) in sunscreen-protected skin compared to unprotected skin. Sunscreen products are then rated as PA1, PA11, PA111, or PA1111 (where higher numbers indicate increasing UVA protection).

PHYSICAL VS. CHEMICAL

Sunscreens can be classified as physical, chemical, or both, depending on their ingredients.

Physical sunscreens

• Contain titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide
• Physically reflect or “bounce” sunlight away from the skin
• Can leave a white cast on the skin unless rubbed in well, micronized, or tinted
• Start protecting immediately upon application

Chemical sunscreens

• Contain ingredients such as avobenzone and oxybenzone
• Absorb UV light so that the light is prevented from penetrating the skin
• May occasionally be irritating or cause allergic reactions
• Require 20 minutes after application for full effect

APPLICATION

Most of us do not apply enough sunscreen! For the face and neck, up to a half teaspoon may be needed, especially if you use your whole hands to rub in the sunscreen. For the body, 1 ounce or 2 tablespoons is enough for one application. Studies show that most people apply only half to a quarter of that amount, which means that the actual SPF they have on their body is lower than advertised. During a long day at the beach, one person should use around one quarter to one half of an 8 oz bottle!

If using a chemical sunscreen, remember to apply half an hour before going outside.

No sunscreen, regardless of strength, should be expected to stay effective longer than two hours without reapplication. That being said, the reapplication of sunscreen depends on what your activities are for the day. If you are inside working all day, I would not worry about reapplying at all. If you're in and out, I'd reapply at least midday. If you are going to be out for extended periods during the day, then your goal is to re-apply every 2 hours or so, especially if you are going in and out of water or if you are sweating or wiping your face.

ALTERNATIVE METHODS OF PROTECTION
Of course, sunscreen is just one weapon in your arsenal against sun damage. Don’t forget about hats, (UV protective) sunglasses, clothing, and seeking the shade!

Those who plan on spending a lot of time in the sun may want to consider a dietary supplement called Heliocare. Heliocare capsules contain Polypodium leucotomos, an extract of a fern found in Central and South America that has been used for centuries to treat skin disorders. These powerful antioxidants help to combat the free radicals produced during sun exposure, decreasing sunburn response and possibly helping to combat long-term sun damage.

If you’re looking for that summer glow without the risk of sunburn or skin cancer, check out our blog post on sunless tanners. However, remember that these offer little to no sun protection, so they are not a replacement for sunscreen!

RECOMMENDATIONS
Here are some sunscreens that shouldn’t promote acne, categorized by skin type:

For normal-to-oily skin

• Cetaphil Dermacontrol Moisturizer SPF 30 (no white tint)
• Murad Oil-Control Mattifier SPF 15 (good for everyday use, but the SPF may be too low for outdoor activities)
• Neutrogena Oil Free Moisture SPF 35
• Neutrogena Pure and Free Liquid, SPF 50 (almost no white cast)
• Neutrogena Healthy Defense Daily Moisturizer with Helioplex, SPF 50 (lightweight and non-greasy)

For combination or in-between skin

• EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46 (my all-around favorite!)

For dry/sensitive skin

• Vanicream Sunscreen SPF 30
• Tizo Solar Protection Formula, Facial Mineral Fusion SPF 40 (great physical sunscreen with a light tint)

For dark skin

• La Roche Posay Anthelios SPF 60 (no cast)

For sports, swimming, sweaty activities

• Solbar Zinc SPF 38 (has an oil free base that lasts for up to 80 minutes in the water, is more rub resistant than most, and is gentle on the eyes)

TIPS

• Applying moisturiser beforehand facilitates smooth application without annoying pilling (like when little white bits come off—ugh).
• Allow time for sunscreen to dry before putting on makeup.
• Remember, no sunscreen is a complete block—no matter what the SPF is!
• You won’t use it unless you like it, so the biggest key is finding a sunscreen you like!

Jasmin Chang, RN, AGNP-C

Jasmin Chang is a board-certified nurse practitioner at PocketDerm, where patients can see a health care professional online for comprehensive acne and anti-aging treatment. Jasmin completed her undergraduate studies at UC San Diego, graduated with her Master of Science in Nursing at UC San Francisco, and is currently based in San Diego, CA.

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